Monday 12th October 2009
A surprise swell that persisted through from the day before. It hadn’t been talked up by the forecasting sites and there were not many people in the water at all for the early and strangely it became more crowded later that it had been for better waves on the day before – a Sunday. Moderate offshores made the consistent 3ft sets from the east plume in the clear morning light. Unfortunately I couldn’t help myself and surfed early so missed the best of it with the camera. By the time I swum out with the housing the sky had become overcast, the waves fatter and less consistent and the breeze slightly onshore…
Sessions
A few images…