Where were you?
Thursday, May 14th, 2009 | Uncategorized
Wednesday the 13th of May. After two days of swell that didn’t quite meet the expectations created by the predictions we had the complete opposite. A day that peaked beyond anyone’s expectations. Around midday we had 6-8ft bombs with a 12-14 second period hitting the point, groomed perfectly by the gentle SW breeze that persisted all day. The waves were peaking out back, barrelling and then running all the way down the point.
The sets were massive and way wide. One clean up set left three guys with broken legropes and a long swim in. Even with the fins on it was hard to get under them. It is the hardest I have ever had to work for some shots…


