15th December 2008
The swell came up quickly, peaked and faded. At dawn there were 4-6ft lines from the SE with a SW breeze keeping things clean. The tide was high following the full moon and as the point filled up and the wind swung more to the south then things got messy sectioning and unpredicable. There was no shortage of size and plenty of waves were breaking through to the sheds but it was far from perfect…